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Homemade Dechlorinator

Homemade Dechlorinator by WorldBettas

So many people are into fancy labels and claims of god like chemicals to make there fish better than any in the world. Some, people will pay over 10 usd a bottle for dechlorinator or more. If this is you let me show you how to save a lot of money and keep your pocket more full…
So I will start off with some basic why and because and end with a how to do it. Please enjoy and pass this info to others and help the fish keepers…

Well, Sodium Thiosulphate is the dechlorinator. There is no real recipe but I will try to break it down for what has been tested and safe. Just use one drop of Sodium Thiosulphate stock solution per gallon of water. That’s usually the recommended dosage for Sodium Thiosulphate. Most dechlorinator products are just watered down Sodium Thiosulphate with other things added and as we all know the less we add to our water the better it is for the fish. But for pure Sodium Thiosulphate, one drop per gallon is what I use.
If you can’t find it under the name Sodium Thiosulfate on line, the chemical formula for which you would look would be Na2S2O3·5H2O (possibly without the 5H2O).

A standard solution/stock solution of sodium thiosulfate is a 10% solution, of which you’d be using about one drop per gallon. This will reduce and neutralize over 1 ppm of chlorine.
Here is how I do this. I dissolve 29 g of Sodium thiosulfate (from a photographic supply store or online source) in 2 liters of bottled water. The solution goes into a 2-liter container with a pump (AquaPlus is sold in those containers or a 5cc kids medicine dropper and a coke bottle). One squirt of the pump (5cc) removes 1 ppm of chlorine from 10 gal of water. And since 1 ppm is the maximum you can ever find in any water supply line or less, you can always safely assume that one squirt of the pump will fully neutralize chlorine in 10 gal of water.
If you go and investigated this stuff you will see anyone could trust their self to mix it properly and dose it with the dechlorinator mix above. You just cant go wrong…..20USD is a life time supply!

Dechlor does not rid the tank of ammonia.
Testing your tap water is something every one should do from time to time. With the rash of flooding recently the water companies have begun to use ammonia to disinfect the water source. Test your tap water as well for additional ammonia.

Now I am not saying that you can not remove ammonia with home made dechlor, I am just saying it is beyond most aquarium hobbyist. So, if you want to look into it and get down to the formals used by the big company’s look into citric acid as it can donate three H+
3NH3 + CA = H2O + Salt but if you used pure citric acid it would take maybe something like 1 gm to do 1000 gallons of water 🙂 at 1ppm of ammonia because Citric acid molecular weight = 192.124 g/mol. In other words a lot goes a long way so only a very small amount is needed. Neutralizing with HCl is likely the cheapest and next easiest thing to do. However, without adequate mixing and careful titration, it’s would be very hard to neutralize exactly for most home Aquarium keepers. Mostly because you would need to add a buffer (phosphate is a relatively cheap inorganic buffer) and then use HCl for neutralization. However, you will have to monitor the pH to avoid adding too much acid. You will need to research this on your own as I do not give the formals for trade marked dechlor products. But, Le Chatelier’s principle will push the NH3 + H2O <=> NH4OH equilibrium to the left as the acid is added and ensure all ammonia is converted to the chloride.

A simple stock solution of potassium metabisulfite K2S205 or Camden tablet photo shop or wine maker shop (wine makers 1 tab per 20 usg) The typical dosage is 1 tsp potassium metabisulfite per 1-gallon bucket for a stock solution for 1 drop per gallon. For Chloramine if your local water provider uses Chloramine and not chlorine. Campden tablets ARE k-meta with other inert ingredients added to make it tablet form. Same exact thing. Potassium Metabisulfite (K-Meta) is stable for 1 year where Sodium Metabisulphite (Na-Meta) is only good for a few hours.

Add some echinacea and vitimans and you have a off the shelf brand for penny’s on the dollar.

Sodium thiosulfate
Sodium thiosulfate
Crystal structure of sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate
Sodium thiosulfate.jpg
Names
IUPAC name

Sodium thiosulfate
Other names

Sodium hyposulfite
Hyposulphite of soda
Identifiers
3D model (JSmol)
ChEBI
ChEMBL
ChemSpider
ECHA InfoCard 100.028.970
E number E539 (acidity regulators, …)
PubChem CID
RTECS number XN6476000
UNII
Properties
Na2S2O3
Molar mass 158.11 g/mol (anhydrous)
248.18 g/mol (pentahydrate)
Appearance White crystals
Odor Odorless
Density 1.667 g/cm3
Melting point 48.3 °C (118.9 °F; 321.4 K) (pentahydrate)
Boiling point 100 °C (212 °F; 373 K) (pentahydrate, – 5H2O decomposition)
70.1 g/100 mL (20 °C)[1]
231 g/100 mL (100 °C)
Solubility negligible in alcohol
1.489
Structure
monoclinic
Hazards
Safety data sheet External MSDS
R-phrases(outdated) R21 R36 R37 R38
NFPA 704
Flammability code 0: Will not burn. E.g., water Health code 1: Exposure would cause irritation but only minor residual injury. E.g., turpentine Reactivity code 0: Normally stable, even under fire exposure conditions, and is not reactive with water. E.g., liquid nitrogen Special hazards (white): no code

NFPA 704 four-colored diamond

Flash point Non-flammable
Except where otherwise noted, data are given for materials in their standard state (at 25 °C [77 °F], 100 kPa).
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Infobox references

Sodium thiosulfate (sodium thiosulphate) is a chemical and medication. As a medication it is used to treat cyanide poisoning and pityriasis versicolor.[2]

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